Tom Trethowan and his brother John make raw-milk Cheddar at Park Farm in Somerset. It's clothbound, made on the farm from their own cows' milk, and it's one of the most complex Cheddars we sell. They came up to Edinburgh last Thursday for a takeover at the Cheese Lounge.
Pitchfork is what Cheddar tastes like when you stop industrialising it. Raw milk, cloth-bound, broken curd. The rest is patience.
We served a four-course supper built around a single Pitchfork wheel. Tom told stories between courses. Sixteen people in the room. We'll do it again in the autumn — sign up for the newsletter to hear when.